Yvoire, France

Our original plan was to spend Wednesday in Chamonix, France, and take a cable car ride up to see Mont Blanc. Unfortunately, the weather was such that it would have been a wasted trip. Instead, we went to Yvoire, France, a walled city dating from the Medieval period. It is full of quaint little shops and small restaurants. The trip to Yvoire included a train ride to Nyon, a 15 minute walk to Lake Geneva, and a 20 minute boat ride over to Yvoire.

 





We had a delicious lunch of crepes and ice cream. This was a first for the girls. Following lunch we toured a large botanical garden that used to be part of the castle grounds. We even saw (and smelled) a plant that smelled like coca cola!  We also did some major shopping, and my college French came in handy. There were few here who spoke any English.

A Lovely Dinner

Tuesday evening, we had a wonderful meal with MaryAnn & Derek Wallace. MaryAnn is the daughter of church member Charles and Mary Lee Lee. MaryAnn was incredibly helpful in our planning the Geneva portion of our trip. As you can see from the picture, it was a beautiful evening on the shore of Lake Geneva! Thanks MaryAnn and Derek!

 

Reformation Wall

Tuesday afternoon, we visited the reformation wall that commemorates many of those involved in the years of the reformation. The wall stretches more than 300 feet and features the figures of 10 of the important reformers through the years.

 

 From Wikipedia:

The International Monument to the Reformation (French: Monument international de la Réformation, German: Internationales Reformationsdenkmal), usually known as the Reformation Wall,is a monument in Geneva, Switzerland. It honours many of the main individuals, events, and documents of the Protestant Reformation by depicting them in statues and bas-reliefs.
The Wall is in the grounds of the University of Geneva, which was founded by John Calvin, and was built to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Calvin's birth and the 350th anniversary of the university's establishment. It is built into the old city walls of Geneva, and the monument's location there is designed to represent the fortifications', and therefore the city of Geneva's, integral importance to the Reformation.

Tuesday - The Reformation

We stayed at the Hotel Bel Esperance in the old town area of Geveva. It had been a Salvation Army post that was turned into a hotel. Proceeds from the hotel are used to fund the work of the Salvation Army. While not a fancy hotel, it is a wonderful and reasonable place to stay. It is right in the middle of all the things I wanted to see. Breakfast was delicious!
We walked to the Museum of the Reformation not more than three blocks from the hotel. It holds many historic items that span the 100 or so years of the reformation. I particularly enjoyed seeing two pieces: a 1559 edition of the Institutes of the Christian Religion and a handwritten letter by Calvin to the widow of a friend. The one challenge of visiting the museum is that most of the interpretive elements are in French. Still, it was an excellent collection of artifacts.
Following the Reformation Museum, we visited the St. Pierre Cathedral where Calvin preached to the community. It is a massive structure with two spires that you can climb up in to get a great view of Geneva.

Monday Lost Luggage

It was on our trip from Dusseldorf to Geneva that four of our five bags did not arrive. See my previous post to read about the loss. They eventually showed up the following afternoon.

If it's Monday, it must be Geneva

 

Monday was a travel day which meant a lot of airports and airplanes....but that is OK! I love airports and airplanes! Above is a video of our approach and landing into Geneva. I know, I didn't turn off all electronic devices! (Please don't rat me out!)

Worship in Glasgow

I was very much looking forward to Sunday worship in Glasgow. We decided that we would go to the Glasgow Cathedral and worship with the Scottish Presbyterian Church that is active there.
The different parts of the service were very familiar, and it was wonderful to be with the Glasgow locals and visitors from around the world.  The pastor preached an excellent sermon on facing and living through the struggles that will come our way during life. Following the service, we were greeted warmly by church members.
I never know when I visit other churches whether to reveal to the pastor, that I too am a pastor. But in this case, I let the pastor know that I was an American Presbyterian Pastor on sabbatical. I wanted him to know that a colleague found his sermon meaningful.
Following our time with the congregation, we found a place right around the corner for lunch. While there, I had a conversation with a fellow who was waiting around for "the tour." I asked him, "what tour," and he replied that a sculpter was getting ready to give a tour of the architecture of the Glasgow Necropolis (graveyard). Brooke, and I thought this would be a wonderful opportunity to learn something about sepulchral art. So we tagged along.

 

 

The tour turned out to be a fundraiser by a local Hospice Hospital, and we discovered afterwards that the fellow giving the tour was Sandy Stoddart. He is the Sculptor in Ordinary to The Queen in Scotland.This was one of those providential, serendipitous moments that come along rarely.

After the tour, we wandered around Glasgow taking in the sites and then headed back to our B&B before the subway stopped running.



Dumbarton Castle

Just outside of Glasgow is Dumbarton Castle. It was built into an ancient extinct volcanic feature. As castles go, it was a little less impressive than others we had seen. But the location was spectacular. The views from the summit were great.

 



Saturday Travel

Saturday was a travel day. We got up and ate our breakfast and then departed to Glasgow. We decided to take the scenic route and go via Glencoe. For those Scottish history buffs, Glencoe was where the Campbell Clan killed many members of the McDonald Clan in a major breach of hospitality.
Here is the massacre mounument:

Then we continued our journey to Glascow through some amazing country. Words and pictures just don't do justice to just how beautiful it is. Tall mountains, deep valleys, open plains.




Scottish Wayside



Friday on Iona

One of the places I have been most anxious to visit is the Island of Iona. In 563, St. Columba arrived on this small island and began his evangelism of the Picts and the Celts. Over the next 1500 years, Christians have had a presence on the island. It is one of the "thin" places on earth where heaven and earth seem to touch.
The Abbey and Church were restored over the years and since the 1930's, there has been a very active and passionate Christian presence worshiping and studying on the island. All of us felt a close connection to the Spirit during our visit.

The Abbey Cloister

Church

Brooke and I have decided that sometime soon, we will return to Iona and spend some extended time here. Perhaps this will be where we spend our 25th anniversary.

Driving in Scotland

Ok, it probably goes without saying that driving on the left side of the road after a lifetime of driving on the right hand side is difficult. However, it isn't the side on which one drives that is the most difficult. It is the small roads that provides the challenge.
It amazes me that the same "number road" can be both a four lane divided highway and a one lane road. On our way from Oban to Glasgow via Glen Coe, we started on a nice wide four lane highway, and as we neared Loch Lomand, the road was just over a lane wide....and it was a two way road!
On the road to Iona on the Isle of Mull, it is truly a one lane road with traffic going both ways. Every 200 feet or so, there is a place to pull off and let the oncoming or overtaking traffic pass. The sad part for me was that because I was concentrating so hard on not getting us killed, I missed some of the most beautiful country there is.

Thursday in Edinburgh

Our first order of business was to go to the Edinburgh Castle. The castle dominates one end of the Royal Mile up on a hill. The views from the castle truly are spectacular. Inside the castle walls is a very moving war memorial that lists all the names of those who have died in service to the UK since WW1. Also, there are two good exhibits showing how the castle was used as a prison over the last 200 years. Very interesting!
The Scottish Crown Jewels and Sword are kept in the Edinburgh Castle, and the story of where they have been hidden over the last 400 years is very intriguing. Honours of Scotland.

On our way down the hill, we ran into a very nice man who impersonated the Scottish Hero William Wallace (Brave Heart). He was an engaging personality and a lot of fun to talk to.

 

Stirling Plain

Following our morning at the castle, we began the part of the trip that Brooke was dreading....my driving! We headed up the center of Scotland and stopped at Stirling Castle in Stirling. It was here that Wallace achieved victory against the English in the battle of Stirling BridgeWe really enjoyed our visit to Stirling Castle. It felt so much more authentic than Edinburgh which has become a tourist destination. Stirling Castle was built by James the IV, but was never lived in by him. He died just before it was completed.

Throne Room at Stirling

 

Wednesday in Edinburgh - Part 2

Following a wonderful lunch on the Royal Yacht Britannia, we made our way back to the center of Edinburgh. We walked down to the John Knox house an took about an hour touring the home of the 16th Centuray Scottish reformer. It was an interesting museum with many quotations on the walls. There were a number of letters and writings in Knox's own hand. The rooms were larger than I expected, but the ceilings were low. Visitors get a good sense of the prominence that was Knox's position in Edinburgh. After the tour, I spent a little time looking through the bookstore.

There were a couple of books on Knox's life that looked good, so I purchased them. I look forward to reading them to get a fuller understanding of the Scottish father of the Presbyterian Church. All in all, I was a little underwhelmed by Knox's home. For me, it is the St. Giles Cathedral that gave me a feel for Knox's importance in the Scottish reformation.

So, I returned to the Cathedral and spent some more time looking around, taking pictures, and sitting reflectively.

We also had the opportunity to take a tour of the "vaults" of Edinburgh. The vaults were constructed in the 1700's under the South Bridge. They were used for economic endeavor until they were abandonned because of the damp and dark conditions. Once the merchants stopped using them, other "less respectable" people moved in. You can read more about them here: Edinburg Vaults.

Here are some pictures:

The girls especially liked the "creepiness" factor of the the vaults; Afterwards we had an excellent meal and retired for the evening!

Priceless

20 Ibuprofen - Geneva = $19.20 USD
1000 Ibuprofen - Walmart = $20.00 USD
America= Priceless!

Lost Luggage

Due to the pace of our trip and lack of internet connection, I am behind in updating our trip. But this is just a quick note to say we arrived in Geneva on Monday, but 4 of our 5 pieces of luggage did not.
Hopefully, they will show up in the morning! I hope to bring our trip up to date when my charger for my computer shows up with my luggage.

Wednesday in Edinburgh- Part 1

A hearty Scottish breakfast prepared us for the day ahead. While having nothing to do with Presbyterian History, we opted for a visit to the Royal Brittania - the last official state yacht for the Queen. It was decommisioned several years ago and had been turned into a museum. It is quite something. Interestingly, it has a feel of the time when it was constructed (the 50's) even though it was used up until the 90's. Pictures work better than words, so here you go:

Tuesday to Edinburgh

Our flight to Edinburgh was easy and quick. We arrived about 1 p.m. and set about getting our car. Now I am sure most of you know that they drive on the left here in the UK. While I successfully navigated our way to our Bed and Breakfast, it was a challenge. Not only driving on the wrong side, but small roads, crazy road markings, and impatient drivers made the short 9 mile trip memorable.

We went to check into the B&B we had booked. As we began to settle in, Brooke found a live crawling bug in the bed that we took to be a "bed-bug." Well the owner was horrified, and quickly arranged for us another place to stay. It is too bad, because the original place was just perfect for us.
Oh well.
We had not eaten lunch and by the time we were able to go someplace it was dinner time. So we loaded up with a big dinner, and then walked into the Old Town of Edinburgh. As we strolled, we happened upon one of my "must see" places: St. Giles Cathedral. Here John Knox preached the reformation to the Scots. There is just something about being in a 500 year old church that moves the soul. I could imagine, Knox standing in the pulpit raging against the excesses of the Catholic Church. If you do any reading about Knox, you will find that he was a firey preacher who sometimes let his heart overrule his head.

While the Scottish Presbyterian history flows through my blood, I know my congregation is happy that I am not a firebrand! There is so much to see in the cathedral that we decided to come back the next day to take a little more time. Beside that, they were closing at 7 p.m. We made the 2 mile walk back to our B&B and collasped tired for the night.

 

London Day 2

We "slept in" and had breakfast at 9 a.m. Then we headed to the British Museum. Words cannot adequately describe the sheer size of the place and the significance of the collection within. The Rosetta Stone holds the most prominent place in the museum, but there are very important items ranging from 5000 BC to today.

It is hard to rate which time period I liked the best. The ancient Egypt exhibits conjured up images of the Israelite captivity. The middle ages exhibits were replete with swords and shields. The Renaissance library showed the progress of human intellectual progress. Obviously there are way too many items to take in during a short visit, but I believe we got a taste of the width and breadth of human history.
Following a delicious lunch, we took the "tube" to St. Paul's Cathedral. Designed by Christopher Wren, it is the protestant answer to St. Peter's in Rome. It truly is a work of art done for the glory of God. We climbed all 528 steps (285 feet) to the "Golden Gallery" which gave beautiful panoramic views of the city.

 

St. Paul's just happens to have a Monday Evening "Evensong" worship service, so we stayed to worship. It was a beautiful experience as the voices of the choir echoed throughout the great space of the cathedral. I closed my eyes and imagined angels in heaven singing praise to our God!



Dinner at an authentic pub, a walk along the Thames, and a tube ride back to the hotel finished up our day.

London Day 1

So as I said, we had a great meal with the Dore's. Aunt Jane and Uncle John; Gemma, Samantha with husband Mo, & baby Layla; and James and girlfriend Daniella; plus the five of us! We had a traditional English Sunday roast. It was delicious and the company was fabulous.

Following lunch, Gemma took the three girls shopping at Westfield Mall. While the rest of us went for coffee and dessert. After about an hour we came back together said our goodbye's, and John, Samantha, and Jane took us to our hotel: Kensington Close Hotel.
By this time with no sleep for more than 24 hours, we were about to hit a wall. We checked into the hotel and took an hour nap. We were somewhat revived...enough to make it to bedtime!
We met good family friend Charlie Rees from Bournemouth, and he took us on a walking tour toward central London. We went by Hyde Park onto Constitution Hill and stopped in front of Buckingham Palace.

The girls were excited to see the palace guards and dream of being a princess waving from the balcony which you see behind us. Which one will Harry pick? We continued on to the Thames and on the way we saw Big Ben, the Parliment, the London Eye, and other iconic British landmarks. We eventually found a place to eat a quick bite - a restaurant called (of all things) "EAT." I guess that says it all!

By this time it was close to 8 p.m., and we were all tired. We made our way to the London Underground and took the "tube" back to our hotel. We fell into bed exhausted!

 

 



2 Days in London.

We arrived Sunday Morning after a good flight though the couple behind us decided to talk loudly. I think we got about 2 hours is sleep. Brooke's aunt and uncle picked us up at the airport and tools us to visit the cousins who live near Wembly Stadium. Following a delightful visit, we went to a pub to have a traditional English Sunday lunch. The whole family was there: .... Boarding call... More later...

The Evening Before the Big Trip

Brooke and I went out to dinner by ourselves tonight before leaving on a 13 day trip with so much family togetherness! When we walked out of the restaurant, we saw this double rainbow. The rainbow reminds me of God's covenant with the world and tonight served as a bon voyage gift from the Lord.
We are working on the last minute items for our trip. Checking our clothes, making sure we have packed our medicines, have all our travel documents in hand, etc. I think we are in pretty good shape.
Brooke's new English Aunt and her family will be meeting us in Heathrow when we arrive on Sunday morning. They have planned a visit to some of the suburbs of London and then a whole family lunch at a pub near our hotel. It sure is comforting to know that someone is there to meet us.
This past week has been full of end of school activities and travel planning, but I am starting to notice that I am unwinding from work. After so many years of attentive ministry, it is nice to be able to relax and not worry about the church. I know it is in good hands!

Rodanthe, NC

One of my favorite places in the world is Hatteras Island. My parents built a house there in 2000, and it has served as a "thin" place for me for many years. To begin my sabbatical, I decided to spend a few days there.
I began reflecting on my years of seminary and my first call. I finished with about 10 pages of reflection on what I learned during those 8 years. I have found this a good exercise to remind me why I was called into the ministry in the first place.
I brought a book on the History of the Protestant Reformation to read in preparation for the trip to Scotland and Geneva. It has been a good reminder about many of the things I learned in seminary. Today, Brooke asked me to clarify many of the facts about the reformation for her. It was helpful to have refreshed my own memory.
I also took some long walks on the beach and sailed a couple of times on the Pamlico Sound. The weather was just outstanding!